‘a country forever scarred by its incredibly somber past but finding solace in it’s present’
bosnia is perhaps a strange choice for most and often a choice where, when discussed, leaves people confused as to why on earth you would visit. where is it? is it even a country? is it safe? just why would such a place appeal to you? are you crazy.. isn’t there a war there right now? is often the content of said discussions. well, i’m here to tell you in this post just how fabulous this balkan nation is and why you simply have to visit.
sarajevo
located centrally/east, sarajevo is the countries capital. the city itself is nestled within the greater sarajevo valley on the banks of the miljacka river and is surrounded by the dinaric alps. nicknamed ‘the jerusalem of europe’ sarajevo is famous for its incredibly multi-ethnic nature; it is the only city in europe that is home to a catholic church, synagogue, mosque and an orthodox church. this fact alone speaks volumes for the tolerance and respect towards difference.
however this hasn’t always been the case with sarajevo, with the city enduring heavy military action during the ‘seige of sarajevo’ between 1992-1996. From the moment you leave the airport, bus station or train station, this is extremely evident at every corner. buildings stood sprayed with bomb shells and shrapnel, beaten vehicles, dated public transport and the 200 ‘roses of sarajevo’ dotted around (a memorial made from the concrete scars caused by mortar shell explosions that have since been filled with red resin) a city forever scarred by hurt. However, especially in this case, if you judge this book by it’s cover you’ll miss out on its fascinating content.
living and costs
i stayed in a hostel in sarajevo ‘balkan han hostel’ £8-£10 and be warned you will be welcomed with love and a traditional shot of rakija. the currency is the bosnian mark (roughly £1 to 2BAM). as always, i’ll use beer as a foundation to grasp the prices and in this case, you can pick up a beverage for around 1-3BAM.
the balkan han hostel tour; i HIGHLY recommend this tour and would even go as far as saying it’s the best tour i’ve endured since travelling. this 4 hour excursion presents you with a unique, educational and touching experience; giving you an insight into the still fresh scars from the 1992-96 siege. During the tour (guided by a war veteran) you will see combat frontlines, inquisitive hotspots, sights decimated by bombshells and the most amazing views of this curiously beautiful city.
tour spots
kovaci – memorial park
yellow and white ottoman fortresses
tour through the frontlines
olympic stadium kosevo
sarajevo’s romeo and juliet bridge
grbavica stadium/heroes square
sarajevo tunnel of hope museum
snipers nest (serbian sniper tower)
abandoned 1984 bobsleigh track
panoramic city views
unesco protected; second biggest jewish cemetery in europe
including: professional guide, tickets to tunnel of hope museum, bosnian lunch (burek), LOTS of rakija shots , beer and transportation to each point.
points of interest
baščaršija: the historic market in the centre. here you will notice the ottoman influence. a bazaar full of stores, bosnian coffee shops and of course bosnian foods such as burek and cevapi.
latin bridge: the sight of the assassination of archduke franz ferdinand.
trebević mountain: for fantastic views over the city.
sebilj: an ottoman-styled wooden fountain swarmed by pigeons. it is said if you drink from one side you will visit bosnia again, twice you will marry in bosnia!
gazi husrev-beg Mosque: the oldest in bosnia-herzegovina.
rahatlook: a coffee shop i stumbled across and absolutely did not regret. pick up a traditional bosnian coffee in this cosy spot and chill out with the locals.
zlatna ribica (goldfish): a vintage bar/coffee shop often described as a fantasyland with relics covering the interior – definitely worth a visit for its vibe alone.
just a few personal notable places/experiences. sarajevo really has so much to offer hence why i will be returning asap!
after visiting the capital, i took a train to Mostar. this took roughly 2 hours and 30 minutes costing around £5. make a case of sitting on the left hand side of the carriage for a stunning view..
mostar
located in the south straddling the neretva river, mostar is the 6th biggest city in bosnia-herzegovina. it is riddled with yellow cobblestone pavements, cute markets and an incredibly warming/tranquil ambience. sadly i only spent 1 night here but i certainly intend on spending much more time in this quaint wonderland.
it’s difficult for me to express my perception of mostar given that i spent a short period time there, so ill leave you with a short anecdote. a local and i came to a perhaps controversial conclusion describing mostar as one of the most open minded cities in the world. it has a 34% mix of families/religion – holding the highest in the world and the respect for women, men, children, elderly, equality is unmatchable. i was told people here drink coffee with one another from the ‘enemy of the war back in 1992-95′.
mustafa: a local who survived the war in mostar ‘the most beautiful things are not in the window, they are further back or perhaps behind the wall. get out, have a coffee. enjoy conversation with people of different opinions and backgrounds, life’s too short for hate. no one has time for that.’
a quote that has truly stuck with me and will continue to do so forever. a typical bucket list checkpoint for most is to jump from the daring 24m stari most (old bridge). however for me, sitting in one of the oldest coffee shops accompanied by a loving, fascinating human full of raw emotion and alluring conversation was one for the core memories.
living and costs
i stayed in a hostel called ‘hostel dada’ costing me £5 and included a very substantial free breakfast. it is similar pricing to sarajevo and in spots actually slightly cheaper.
points of interest
stari most: the famous old bridge in mostar. walk over it, bask in its beauty, watch professionals jump off it. alternatively, if you’re brave enough, become a local celebrity by paying €25 and jumping off this 24m monster yourself.
ali baba: an incredibly unique bar within a cave.
aimlessly walk: some of my favourite moments travelling bosnia were when i simply wandered around haphazardly. mostar is a small, quaint city with lots of charming moments to be discovered!
