to sum up vietnam in brief would be to say; perpetual accessibility of street food, an abundance of coffee shops, babies (of all kinds) EVERYWHERE, floods of motorbikes, plastic school chairs at every turn and an unhealthy karaoke obsession. i go into the details of these very vietnamese components & cover ho chi minh circumstantially in my post a guide to becoming an expat in ho chi minh city.

this trip would be the gradual ending of my time in vietnam. consequently quitting my job and moving out from my ho chi minh city home. i would therefore start from hcm and in the consecutive 10 days cover da lat, hội an, da nang, huế and hanoi. in this post i will give you my perspective of the aforementioned locations but also provide you with some facts, tips and points of interest.

now to be clear, much like anywhere in the world, vietnam can absolutely not be ‘done’ within 10 days. however, travelling from the south to north via the east coast definitely gave me an insight into the variation the country has to offer. from vietnams metropolitan cities, luscious seaside, to the traditional feeling rural areas; a good amount of ground can be covered adequately in such a short period of time.

budget

the budget for the 10 day trip was 6m VND (£200). this included accommodation, transport, bike rental/fuel at each destination, day excursions, museums, food, water and the odd beer. even with an encounter with a corrupt policeman (burning a lovely 500k vietnamese dong sized note in my pocket) this budget sufficed.

accommodation

the cheapest stay was £3 per night, with the most expensive being £15 per night. this includes hostels, home-stays and airbnbs varying from a fully equipped apartment to an en-suite room in someones home. all accommodation was booked on the following websites/apps:

hostelworld
booking.com
airbnb

bike rental

i always opted for the cheapest ‘daily rent’ automatic available. the price ranged between 90k – 200k VND per day. often with the deposit being a choice of passport or around 1m VND. the motorbike itself was usually a yamaha nouvo 115cc and would typically include 2 helmets, a raincoat and around 1l of fuel to get you going. most hostel, home-stay and air bnb hosts offer a very fair daily renting rate. however, on the off chance they don’t, there are always plenty of places around. stick to the above rates and you can’t go too wrong.

transportation tips

when travelling between cities/towns it is important to double or even triple check the going rates to avoid scams. searching numerous websites or entering tourist shops are the best way to do so. below are the following websites and methods i recommend:

12go.asia
www.baolau.com
reputable tourist shops eg sihn tourist
through the hostel/home-stay/airbnb

starting from ho chi minh city > da lat (9 hour night bus at around 250k VND. booked through sinh tourist situated in district 1).

da lat (2 nights)

first up was the paris of vietnam, the city of flowers, the city of eternal spring: da lat. earning each of those wonderful titles with ease, da lat was undoubtedly my second favourite city in vietnam. the welcomed contrast to ho chi minh city became apparent the moment i took a step off the bus. hit with a significantly cooler temperature and fresh crisp air; it had all the feelings of a european seaside town.

with a host of things to explore; the very green and colourful da lat will keep you both occupied and charmed throughout your visit.

points of interest

weasel coffee farm
get an insightful tour of a curious weasel farm and then indulge in the rarest and most expensive coffee yourself from 100k VND. a wonderful experience, if not my favourite from this trip and a must for any coffee lover!

strawberry farm
given da lat is renowned for its fresh strawberries and for this reason you can find farms here in abundance. having stumbled across this particular one by chance, it was a lovely excursion. go for a wander, bask in the nature and pick up half a KG of strawberries for around 60k VND.

robin hill
take a return trip for 80k VND from robin hill to truc lam station. taking a round 10 minutes each-way, it’s a fantastic way to admire da lats breathtaking landscape. panoramic views of pine forests, hills, lakes and even da lats miniature eiffel tower await you. upon your return to robin hill, grab a coffee from anna’s coffee house.

linh phuoc pagoda
chill out & wander around da lats magnificent pagoda. mesmerising patters, colours & cherry blossom await you.

da lat flower park
definitely one to visit during spring/summer. pay 60k to spend an hour or so roving around this serene and peaceful flower park.

da lat night market & street food

banh trang nuong, known as the vietnamese pizza, is the must try street food of da lat. it’s a delicious grilled rice paper with numerous toppings. from meats, vegetables, quail egg to fish. the banh trang nuong costs around 10-20k VND and is the perfect snack to grab when shopping at the night market (open between 5-10pm).

da lat > hội (14 hour night bus at around 300k VND). booked at a tourist shop.

hội an (1 night)

the pretty hội an is a famous city attracting thousands of tourists annually. it’s home to a well preserved ancient town intertwined with canals and bustling markets reminiscent of its 15th century trading peak. the variety of architecture pays homage to it’s blended history; small wooden shop houses, colourful chinese buildings and the iconic japanese covered bridge.

hội an has a ‘movie set feel’ where the past becomes present day. not to mention it’s almost impossible to obtain a poor photo. the already vibrant old town lights up as the sun sets transitioning into this fairytale like a lucid fairytale dream. lanterns dangle from the skies, boats set sail and restaurants welcome you in. join other backpackers and locals gathering around the lake to simply enjoy the ambience.

points of interest

hoi an ancient town & night market
markets throughout the day and night with street food aplenty. cross the
japanese bridge, take a popular lantern boat ride or just ramble amongst the shops and market stalls.

white rose restaurant
here you’ll find a hội an classic ‘white rose’ traditionally known as bánh bao bánh vạc. it’s a type of shrimp dumpling made from translucent white dough bunched up to look like a rose. the recipe for these dumplings is secret, held by the family in hội an who supplies all the restaurants. a serving will cost you 70k VND with the ‘white rose restaurant’ being the original place to try them.

banana pancake
a pancake banana with chocolate drizzled over it. a very simple yet sweet & tasty delight. around hội an’s ancient old town you can find them on most corners for around 30k VND.

rosie’s cafe
definitely the spot if you’re craving a western style breakfast & wonderful coffee (especially the cà phê sữa đá).

on paper hội an is an absolute joy and it really is. however i personally became bored very quickly. for me it was lacking in the authenticity i so desperately search for on trips. those special intricate interactions with locals were drowned out by floods of western tourists. groups searching for the perfect instagram spot and chasing the iconic rapunzel lantern scene formed a cliche atmosphere. so contrary to popular opinion, it wasn’t my cup of tea and my least favourite city in vietnam. i was left disappointed, ready to move on and looking optimistically towards da nang.

hội an > da nang (2 hour public bus costing 15k VND).

da nang (2 nights)

next up is da nang and back to a metropolitan setting. this coastal city brings a relaxed spacious feel despite being vietnams 5th largest city by population. an ex french colonial port, this is a place rapidly changing through modern development. echoed aloud by its array of modernistic hotels, restaurants and cafes lined up along the coastline. the distinguished fire breathing dragon bridge being the epitome of this. riddled with cranes in the sky and wide open roads waiting to be filled. truly moving in a forward direction, da nang is a place to watch out for.

as well as the wonderful city centre, da nang is accompanied by a 20 mile long luscious beach. it’s decked with palm trees and a great spot for surfers, kayakers and swimmers alike.

points of interest

the zone 5 military museum
you may feel like you’re illegally entering these grounds but i promise you you’re not. it’s guarded by armed soldiers who pull you to one side upon entry and there seems to be an ongoing military building next door. so it’s hard not to. however once inside, it’s a seemingly deserted museum with an eery yet calming ambience about it. for 60k VND it’s definitely worth it if you’re a keen historian or just enjoy a good museum aesthetic.

my khe beach
a pristine white beach, blue waters and waves big enough to surf.

bà nà hills
i like to call the ‘bà nà hills sunworld’ the south east asian disneyland. i didn’t get my head around this wacky resort and still haven’t as i’m writing this now. an inquisitive amusement park 1,487m above sea level with otherworldly features and landstakes. a mix- match of just about everything & anything gives off a strange aesthetic. leaving the ‘normality’ of vietnamese life at the bottom of the cable car and elevating into a bizarre dream world.

you’ll be accompanied by thousands of asian tourists flocking in search of the perfect instagram picture. and they’ll be more than happy to have a westerner in the mix too! it truly is an odd experience. however one i’m (albeit not sure what i experienced exactly) glad i endured. you have the option of a 750k VND ticket which is for entry only. alternatively, a 900k VND ticket which additionally includes a buffet ticket.

rock climb, navigate unique mazes, walk the famous golden bridge, eat crocodile or explore a french chateau. just a 45 minute motorbike ride from da nang, you have to see it for yourself.

phở việt kiều
critically acclaimed as one of the best phở restaurants in da nang. it’s more expensive than your average bowl of phở at 80k. definitely not the best i’ve had but a solid place to kick that salt craving.

taco ngon
choose from pork, fish, chicken or veggie mixed with a choice of wasabi coleslaw, yoghurt salsa, ginger lime or tamarind BBQ. super tasty and at a fair price of 39k. they even have a eating competition for those whose eyes aren’t too big for their bellies.

da nang > huế 2 hour train costing 107k VND. booked on www.baolau.com. sit on the right hand side (facing the direction the train is going in) and revel in the beauty to come.

huế (2 nights)

huế felt like returning home to my cherished ho chi minh but on a much smaller scale. full of sugary street foods, boisterous markets and a bustling walking street (phố đi bộ huế). however, this city has something ho chi minh does not; the ancient imperial city.

enjoy the fantastically authentic feeling huế encompasses. a city where its history appears frozen in the present moment; numbers of centuries merged to create the huế of today. along with it’s array of activities huế also has a gorgeous natural appearance. the famous perfume river runs through; crowded by flourishing flowers & trees. it only adds to huế’s amiable attitude.

something like a cross between a busy city and charming town, it has a healthy mix. huế is a special place for the locals & tourists alike and you can really feel it. for these reasons, heterogeneous huế comes in at a close 3rd behind da lat. therefore earning the bronze medal and a much deserved podium position for this trip.

points of interest

imperial city (the citadel)
at 150k this is one of the most expensive attractions of the trip. however an essential one. active from 1802 – 1945 and surrounded by a moat. the city contains gorgeous gardens with bonzai trees & topiaries, temples and royal architecture. once the emperors home & ancient grounds you can find yourself peacefully present in.

perfume river
a natural beauty of huế and a famous river in vietnam. take a break from the city centre. go for a walk or simply sit and enjoy the moment.

dong ba market
a premium market in huế with the usual sensory overload whilst wandering through. consisting of a flea market and many smaller local food stalls.

thien mu pagoda
the symbol of huế; a very famous pagoda not just in huế but the whole of vietnam. beautiful both inside and out, get a wonderful view of the passing perfume river.

phố đi bộ huế (walking street)
a very lively typical walking street. consisting of a vast amount of bars, cafes and street food. i strongly recommend the cơm tấm, ice cream and banana fritters in this part of the city.

banh khoai
also known as the huế ‘happy pancake’. a beautiful rice flour crepe both crispy and full of flavour. add your choice of fillings (typically vegetables) roll them up and dip them in chilli sauce. a light, lovely and typical huế lunch costing around 4k a pancake.

huế > hanoi 15 hour night bus costing 250k. booked through the home-stay.

hanoi (3 nights)

the final stop would be vietnams famous and second biggest city: hanoi. an eclectic capital defined by french colonisation, chinese influence, a destructive war and constant modern development. a story told through its varying architecture scattered from the old quarter to it’s metropolis counterparts. not quite as hectic as ho chi minh but certainly comparable in its restless and chaotic nature, hanoi encompasses many attractions related to its eventful past.

vietnam is full of wonderful souls and bloody hell hanoi was no exception. i would just like to share some special moments from the capital specifically.

‘the fruit lady of hanoi‘
in a conventionally tight hanoi lane there was a woman i named the fruit lady of hanoi. i would pass her many times during my stay. a warm smile, hospitable edge, calming aura and comforting grandmother feel – as most elderly vietnamese women. the fruit lady sorted me out with some delicious longun and java apples. then posed for this picture for me.

‘football friends’
with the fruit from the fruit lady, i came across a couple of men watching a repeat of the vietnam vs indonesia football game. at first i thought it would make a cool photo so approached the men and asked. i did not expect what was to follow next. he offered us to sit with him. so we did. i shared with him the fruits and in return he offered us endless shots of his homemade moonshine and pickled veg. we ate dried eel, smoked local cigars and indulged in the football match. other than my terrible attempt at ‘xin chao’ and ‘cam on’ no language was vocally exchanged. yet, we still enjoyed each others presence dearly for an hour. i think the man just wanted a partner to drink with and enjoy his national team win, rather than be alone. we walked away battered and full of love.

‘smoking thuốc lào with the big homie’
as we were leaving the ho chi minh mausoleum we made friends with the ticket inspector and security. a few glancing exchanges and the man insisted i have a go on his pipe. i was buzzing, i knew exactly what he was offering me. i’d been wanting to try it for 3 months, waiting for the right moment and here we were. literally just outside ho minhs mausoleum; the most highly regarded leader in vietnams history. perfect. i took a few tokes and quickly found myself in the bush pictured behind me. profusely coughing and moments away from passing out. the locals found it hilarious, videoing and snapping photos. naturally of course once that spell was over, i had another go. to my shock i nearly passed out again but was rescued when this man gave me some tea. laughs and coughs were exchanged and then we left. i was so out of it i could barely string a sentence together, let alone drive. what a moment.

points of interest

HCM mausoleum
from history textbooks to reality; a very surreal moment. see the resting place of president & revolutionary leader ho chi minh. it is open to the general public free of charge and an absolute must for history lovers.

maison prison
also known as ‘hao lo prison’ or sarcastically named ‘hanoi hilton’ by its american prisoners of war. a popular museum for those on the war history trail. some propaganda but with the concluding point of unity and world peace. tour the remaining parts of this colonial-style prison for 40k VND.

vietnam military history museum
a museum with its take on the wars with china, france and the US. rooms full of war progaganda and information telling the story of vietnams difficult history. the grounds feature aircraft, tanks and a sculpture (pictured below) built from the wreckage of american & french planes. visitors can also climb the hanoi flag tower for a spectacular view. expect to pay an entry fee of 40k VND.

old quarter
wander about and get lost in this lively part of hanoi comprising of 40 streets. you’ll find more or less everything here. from street food, opticians, cafes to clothing. it makes for a great place to grab anything you desperately wanted. like finally grabbing that magnet for your grandma, that cliche ‘pho-king’ t-shirt, a pair of specs or changing up your millions of VND in a dodgy gold shop.

hoàn kiếm lake
go for a stroll, absorb the hussle and bussle yet calming atmosphere and water-gaze on the park benches. if you’re not a vietnamese native, be prepared to be questioned by groups of kids for their english projects!

train street
an iconic shot i’m sure you’ve seen time and time again on instagram. nonetheless, it feels like a rite of passage when in hanoi. it really is a great spot, amongst the flocks of tourists, to capture unique moments of locals going about their day.

note cafe
a quaint cafe right in the centre of the old town. the interior is uniquely covered by thousands of notes left by wanderers passing through from all over. grab a vietnamese styled coffee snap a photo & get writing!

food spots

where hanoi’s city atmosphere felt like a step down from ho chi minh, it’s food certainly impressed. hanoi seemed to tick every box in the food department. with particular reference to the vietnamese classics, below are some spots you absolutely have to check out:

banh mi 25
maybe the best bánh mì in vietnam. this spot was always super busy and for good reason! from vegan to a classic meat filled bánh mì; the collection is both incredibly diverse & tasty. pick up a bánh mì 25 for as little as 25k VND.

king roti
wow. genuinely one of the best deserts i’ve ever had in my life. this cute pop up bakery is home to the the chocolate coffee bun. freshly baked, stored in a warm incubator, keeping the outside crisp, the inside right and the filling moist and warm. at 15k VND what are you waiting for!?

in search of the best phở bo vietnam? i got you. look no further than pho hang trong. off the beaten track and a true gem hidden in plain sight. head down the tiny alley, up the stairs on the right and into the middle of the owners living room. there is no menu. grab a seat, say how many and be prepared for tender beef, a flavoursome broth, fresh chilli sauce and freshly fried bread sticks. it really doesn’t get more authentic than this and all for a very fair price of 30k VND. i’ll never forget this place and nor will you.