ho chi minh city (saigon)

straight off the bat, ho chi minh (commonly known as saigon) is without doubt my favourite city in vietnam. it is both the most populous city and financial centre of the country. being home to 24 districts and with a makeup of inner and suburban areas; saigon has subtle and blatant differences throughout. a chaotic whirl, the city forces excitement and adventure in it’s nature. riddled with hectic markets that’ll send anyone into a sensory overload, rivers of anarchic motorcycles and a constant scream of vitality no matter the time of day – a constant adrenaline filled rollercoaster that you just have to be ok with.

moving to ho chi minh city is, to date, the most outlandish, spontaneous and irresponsibly fantastic chapter in my existence. having booked my flight a week before and applying for my VISA just a few days prior to departure, some would say i was destined for difficult times ahead. alas, from motorbike hire to hair cuts, in this post i will commemorate my time in vietnam whilst enlightening my foot steps that you should and absolutely shouldn’t follow – unless of course you enjoy chaos.

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so without further a-do here’s my unorthodox but somewhat bullet proof guide to becoming an expat in ho chi minh city, vietnam.

networking groups

facebook will be your best friend for the foreseeable future. it’s a fantastic way to network with employers, locals and fellow expats. facebook groups to join to get the ball rolling:

expats in ho chi minh city (saigon)
english teaching jobs in vietnam (the original)
ho chi minh city (saigon) ESL teaching jobs
houseshare/flatshare/room for rent in saigon

post a short passage about yourself stating your credentials and preferences. soon after you’ll have a host of recruiters in your dm’s trying to arrange an interview. i recommend doing this asap. the sooner you secure interviews, the sooner you secure a job and therefore a solid income. not to mention keeping proactive and stress to a minimum will really help sooth the transition into vietnamese life.

from airport to settlement

so, you’ve arrived in vietnam and just left tan son nhat international airport. you’re probably thinking and pardon my french, what the fuck is going on. a couple of flights and just like that you’re in south east asia. flyings just wild, isn’t it?

now i remember distinctively being told by a friend: ‘you’re going to get scammed take it on the chin it’s a given. pay X amount, which is more than it should be, but as long as you pay under X you’ve not been scammed too badly’. a warm welcome to vietnam right?

well, there is a way to avoid this nonsense; download ‘grab’. an app that’ll save you consistently until you get your own pair of wheels. it’s basically the vietnamese uber but way cheaper and so much more exciting. you can book the cheaper motorbike ride or if you have considerable luggage, play it safe with a car. ignore the swarm of cabbies that’ll approach you at arrivals and get ready to book your first grab.

hostel recommendations

whilst looking for jobs, interviewing and searching for apartments you’re going to need a temporary base. like most people and given i was extremely low on funds; i opted for a hostel. choosing a hostel isn’t a problem seeing as they are, cheap, convenient, safe and there’s lots of them. using apps such as ‘booking.com’ and ‘hostelworld’ are preferable for legitimacy and are great for browsing your options.

the below contrasting hostels are merely suggestions from personal experience. they are both in prime central locations (district 1) and great places to get started. if you fancy a change of scenery after some time (which is exactly what i did) it is very easily done. simply start by booking a night or two and extend or move depending on your needs.

prei nokor
120k – 12 mixed dorm
in the heart of the city opposite ben thanh market in district 1.
a modern commercial feel, friendly staff, less sociable vibe.

vietnam guide home hostel
100k – 8 mixed dorm
in a fantastic location also in district 1.
a homely vietnamese feel, friendly staff, very sociable.
banh mi, banana and coffee breakfast included.

of course there’s always the option to book an airbnb, home-stay or hotel depending on your personal preference. if so, i recommend using:

airbnb
booking.com

ho chi minh geography

saigon is a huge city and therefore home to many sub-cultures and areas that are distinguished by ‘districts’. it is split into 24 districts with a makeup of 19 city districts & 5 suburban areas. i didn’t discover them all enough to go into significant detail. however, i will offer some rough guidance for the main few and leave you to discover the rest!

it’s important to do some research on the districts. they can vary a lot to what they can offer you. after all this is your new home, it’s a big decision.

district 1

the bustling epicentre of saigon and home to the majority of the tourist attractions. from the insane bùi viện (walking street) to the famous ben thanh market. d1 has a host of cafes, markets, bars, restaurants and is considered the business area. with a wonderful mix of vintage french architecture and new builds; d1 has something for everyone. the prime place to start your ho chi minh city journey.

bin thanh

nestled between district 1 & 2. bin thanh is home to the tallest building in vietnam, landmark 81 and the owner of modern apartment blocks such as vinhomes and saigon pearl. another prime location given its neighbouring districts.

district 2

the ‘expatriates paradise’ and it sure was mine for a month. riddled with modern new builds, coffee shops, bars, gyms, shopping centres and restaurants. this is your taste of the western world within saigon. although it retains its vietnamese culture well being home to many fantastic street food and markets. it’s commonplace to begin renting a property here as d2 offers a gentle transition into saigonese life.

district 3

i like to think of d3 as the hipster part of saigon. it’s extremely close to d1 and is pretty much an extension of the central district. it’s full of wonderful street foods and given it’s not within d1, prices are generally cheaper. district 3 has a fresh environmentally green aesthetic to it and is a breath of fresh air within this hectic city. not to mention it has the kênh nhiêu lộc – thị nghè running through it. a long meandering river, a typical hectic ride in the day yet blissful at night accompanied by lighting and charming cafes.

district 7

another area fastly developing. similar to that of district 2, district 7 has a very western feel. particularly american, with its wide roads and modern apartment blocks. home to the saigon flea market open every sunday and hot photo shoot spot for locals.

go vap

a favourite amongst those westerns who want ‘the real’ ho chi minh. an urban space with a very authentic feel. there are many wet markets, street foods, undeveloped areas and a vibrant night scene.

tan binh

most likely where you’ll catch your first glimpse of saigon as it’s home to tan son nhat international airport. it was formally the largest district until into two forming tan binh & tan phu. a district you may find yourself passing through when heading from east-west and vice versa.

tan phu

there’s a very authentic vietnamese feel in tan phu and one i experienced by living here. crumbling french colonial architecture, maze like streets and a genuine local charm. fresh fruit, coffee stands, cooked street foods and juice stands galore. there are plenty of shopping experiences in local markets or the spacious indoor aeon mall.

career

using the previously mentioned facebook groups are a leading method for expat recruitment and employment. simply post a short paragraph with information about yourself, credentials, experience and any other details you deem appropriate. you’ll soon have recruiters contacting you looking to take your application further. it’s important to have an idea and take into account what your personal preferences are. such as: public school, private school, teaching centre, age & level preferences, salary expectations and location. the following will maybe help guide you into a category you see yourself in.

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teaching opportunities (ESL)

public schools (primary & high school)
public schools are where i spent the majority of my teaching in vietnam. incredibly rewarding but at the price of a difficult and often challenging position. vietnamese kids have fantastic energy, which by all means is wonderful and a lot of fun. however, the challenge comes with channelling that energy and maintaining interest within the lesson.

typically you will have a teaching assistant to aid you in the disciplinary aspects of the classroom. however, given that resources are sparse, improvisation is your best friend. you’ll find your own style but plenty of games and the use of flash cards get you far. 50 students in a class for 70 minutes, with no air-conditioning and few fans in 30+ degree heat. many people daren’t go into public school teaching and it surely isn’t for everyone. however, it’s a much rawer experience and way more of a challenge than teaching centres. facilitating personal and professional growth as a teacher, i certainly don’t regret it.

kindergarten
little palaces full of smiles, colour & play. this is how educational centres should be. children should be inspired by their environments and not confined to monotonous prison like buildings. working with 3-5 year olds sure was testing but like primary school teaching; incredibly rewarding. classes were usually 30minutes – 2 hours with the maximum amount being 25. certainly this will vary dependent on your company and kindergarten.

teaching centres
from experience this is definitely the easier option. usually very small classes and easily manageable with the assistance of a teaching assistant. from experience, i received a lot of resources and this made lessons incredibly straightforward. lessons at teaching centres tend to be much more relaxed and informal. this is due to the nature of them usually being private classes in addition to school.

substitute teaching
a fantastic option for those not wanting to commit fully. substitute classes provide you with a flexible routine and a varied choice in regard to classes and location. moreover, if you’re not planning to teach for too long it’ll make it easier for you when you leave.

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companies & salary expectations

in general, starting salaries tend to be between 400k-500k. however, this is largely dependent on the company and your experience. as a benchmark, i started on 420k VND but was increased to 450k VND per hour after completing my month probation. this was with ‘compass english’ whom i was on a 15 hour weekly contract with.

reputable companies from experience:

compass english
guru english
VUS

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uniform

if you’re last minute and indecisive like me, getting your uniform can be a stressful experience. so try to get it in advance between interviewing, apartment searching and the rest of the moving your whole life to another country thing.

some companies will supply you with uniform but this is still only often a t-shirt/shirt. however, you’ll still want to get some formal shirts, trousers and shoes. clothing is cheap relative to where you shop and what you’re after. there are of course lots of second hand clothing markets everywhere in saigon. alternatively you could visit vincom center in district 1 where you’ll find a h&m and zara.

if you opt for the cheaper option, try to avoid ben thanh market. although fantastic, ben thanh is a tourist trap and quite possibly the most expensive market in saigon. this was when i experienced my first scam. purchasing a pair of rascal timberland school shoes for 1 million VND; utterly scandalous and a memory that still bugs me today.

motorbike rental

renting or buying a bike isn’t essential as grab is an affordable alternative. however, having one is a huge convenience albeit a brave commitment and definitely a right of passage towards vietnamese life. saigon is riddles with motorbikes. floods streaming through at all angles. it’s an organised chaos that just works, i’m not sure how but it just does. i was consistently told by friends ‘if you can ride a bike in saigon then you can drive anywhere on the planet’. despite this (and trust me i am not a bike person) i was on the roads within a week skrting about.

like most things in saigon, motorbike rental companies are everywhere. districts 1 & 2 seem to be preferable areas for a good deal with an english speaking dealer. for example ‘saigon motorcycles‘ in thao dien, district 2. given the fact i had minimal money and knew i was staying in vietnam for 3 months, i opted for the budget yamaha nouvo 3 also known as the ‘typical expat one’.

license

simple answer, no. i took the chance and dived straight into the deep end with this one. i’m not necessarily recommending you do the same. there are many places you can obtain a legitimate license once upon completion of a short driving course. however most expatriates i met didn’t either.

costs

a rough price breakdown for a yamaha nouvo 3 (automatic; 115Cc):

1 day: 150k VND
1 week: 700k VND
1 month: 1.5k VND
2+ months 1.2k VND / per month

deposit: 2million VND or passport

fuel costing around 70k VND to fill up

each bike typically including:

2 helmets
1 raincoat
a blue card copy
enough fuel to get you to a local petrol station

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of course, there is also the option to purchase a motorbike. my mate picked up a ‘vietnamese backpacker favourite’ the honda win. a fairly reliable bike but still far from the best. he paid around 7million VND & managed to sell it 3 months later with ease.

garage repairs

due to the hardship inflicted by the rough, bumpy and pot hole riddled roads of saigon, bike repairs are an inevitability. most often air, patched tyres and tyre replacements. i can’t even count the amount of times i found myself needing a repair. although i do remember getting through 4 bikes during my stint in saigon. luckily though, garages are super accessible, efficient and on most streets in saigon. i’ll provide you with a very rough breakdown given garage scenarios are a typical scamming situation for foreigners.

breakdown for repairs:

tyre air: free – 5k VND
patched tyre repair: 30k VND
tyre replacement: 100k VND

accommodation

getting your new setup right is important and there are a few things you should consider before making your decision. the district and distance to your workplace/s are probably the two most important factors. as aforementioned in the ‘ho chi minh city geography’ section; districts vary immensely. from their general aesthetic & vibe to amenities, each has something different to offer. be sure to use this guide but wander about the district itself, explore and get a feel for it.

the ‘houseshare/flatshare/room for rent in saigon’ facebook group will help you significantly in finding your ideal place. posting with specificities or browsing through posted properties are equally helpful in your search for your new home.

try and pinpoint the location you’d preferably work in and align that with your property choice. don’t make the mistake i made. for 1 month i was travelling from my home in thao dien to my school in tan binh – about a 35 minute ride. now this may sound like a pretty standard commute. but trust me, in the rainy season, on a useless bike and given the nature of the roads in saigon; this can be seriously testing times.

so, where did i live and what are my personal recommendations?

once hostel life came to its eventual end i moved to thao dien. situated in east saigon and within district 2 or alternatively; the expatriate enclave, thao dien bubble or western world of saigon.

the fact thao dien is defined by its western nature is what makes it such a fantastic starting spot for new expats. thao dien is full of modern restaurants, boutique shops, fresh coffee shops and edgy bars. however it retains it’s typical vietnamese components well with its delicious street foods options. it provides expats with a smooth transition into vietnamese life; with this blend of vietnamese essence and western seasoning. i really recommend this area as a bridge into vietnamese life. it can be seriously overwhelming, especially if it’s your first time in asia.

the breakdown of accommodation per month:

4.5m VND (matched deposit)
500k VND bills
shared house
en-suite
balcony
shared kitchen
safe parking
communal pool & games room

after that month, i eventually moved just a 10 minute ride from my school. it genuinely made all the difference to my daily routine. so moral of the story? learn from my mistake and secure a living space as close as possible to your work location/s!

my new home was to be in west saigon situated in the tan phu district. a much more authentic feel in a place seemingly where i was the only foreigner (which i absolutely reveled in). given the fact tan phu is roughly 11km from district 1, living expenses are lower. and despite this district being more out of the way, it certainly doesn’t lack in things to do. a very liveable district full of wonderful souls and a real sense of community. i found a family here and created incredible memories i will remember forever. tan phu is definitely somewhere for someone in search of some legitimate saigon living.

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the breakdown of accommodation per month:

4.5m VND (matched deposit)
bills included
shared house (coffee shop)
en-suite
supplied regularly with free bottled water
balcony
shared kitchen
safe parking

rent prices are low in vietnam when compared to living expenses and income as a teacher. you can get a sweet deal on some really nice apartment blocks in fantastic locations. it really depends if you want a very western styled apartment block (like vinpearl landmark 81) or perhaps a more traditional apartment feel. saigon certainly has options. so have a look around. IF you wish to move, it’s nothing perhaps what you’re used to. it’s vietnam, so of course it’s usually problem free and incredibly easy. finish your tenancy (if you want), collect your deposit, pack your bag, strap up and ride off into the night to your new home. like so:

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lifestyle

food

nowhere compares to the food culture i experienced in saigon. food is a big part of vietnamese culture. it’s a time of getting together with friends and enjoying food as a family. sharing food, beers, conversation and laughs; it became routine and actually the highlight of my days.

all you can eat buffets are all the rave in saigon. for around 120k VND you can enjoy everything on offer; chicken feet, frog legs, snails, dragonfruit and noodles being a few. almost always coming with a coal bbq, it really is the most authentic you can get.

in addition to the savoury goodness, saigon is known as the sweet capital of vietnam. on more or less every street you will find a stool (or in typical saigon style many) selling sugary sweet beverages. for around 15k VND you can get orange juice (nước cam ép), sugar cane juice (nước mía) and vietnamese coffee with condensed milk (cà phê sữa đá). i would have at least 3 coffees a day. they’re tasty, cheap, addictive and a great solution to a sweet tooth. i absolutely must give a mention to banana fritters (chuối chiên) and a shout out to my local banana fritter lady. another popular sweet option in saigon, the banana fritter is a delightfully sweet snack best enjoyed after a days work.

my top few street foods you simply must try:

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bún thịt nướng
another popular vietnamese dish, especially for morning and lunch time. a mix of cold vermicelli rice noodles, grilled pork, fresh salad, herbs, spring rolls, finished with fish sauce and peanuts. kiều bảo was a regular spot and for good reason. they sell bún thịt nướng for just 24k a bowl. walk in, grab a seat, gesture 1 bowl (or 2 if you fancy it), wait a minute or two and enjoy the best bún thịt nướng in saigon.

address:
bún thịt nướng kiều bảo 139 dề thám, phường cô giang, quận 1, hồ chí minh, vietnam.

convenience stores

you’ll find the following shops in various sizes all over saigon. all fair priced stores offering an alternative to markets and often open much later.

circle k
vinmart
7/11
big c

essentials

liêm barber shop

the saviour of that fresh haircut and at a great price. if you need a trim, any kind of trim, these are most certainly your guys. pricing at 60k VND for a haircut or 110k VND for a haircut and beard trim.

not to mention the barbers themselves are the cool cats of saigon. liêm barbers is a real culture. a wonderful infusion of the US rap scene aesthetic and the gentleman barbers of west europe. these are the self proclaimed fresh and energetic band of brothers with ambitious passions, wide skill sets and professional attitudes. and despite the perhaps intimidatingly cool tattoos and sometimes vintage, sometimes gangster appearance; incredibly friendly guys.

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there are around 12 barber shops in saigon belonging to the liêm barber shop franchise. i will list a few below.

addresses:
67 Hòa Bình, Tân Thới Hoà, Tân Phú, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam.
33 Phan Văn Hân, Phường 19, Bình Thạnh, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam.
2 Phan Văn Trị, Phường 14, Bình Thạnh, Hồ Chí Minh, Vietnam.

shopping

saigon is full of markets and shopping complexes; new and old. there’s the world famous and historic ben thanh market, vincom mall, aeon mall, saigon square and hundreds of others scattered across the city.

if it’s that vintage look you are after, i’ve got you. you can find a list of my favourite vintage stores in saigon here!

nightlife

there various bars and cafes across the whole of saigon. many different vibes and atmospheres are on offer for any time of any day. however, nowhere quite compares to bùi viện – walking street. when i saw it for the first time i was bemused. it’s absolutely bonkers but so much fun. often finding tourists sat on a plastic stools in one of the many illegal bars looking a mixture of intrigued, terrified and uncomfortable.

so, wander down the street, pick a bar or club, grab a saigon beer and get right in the mix. witness the madness unfold before you eyes, let loose and enjoy yourself with the diversity of people it attracts.

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final attractions to check out

given the sheer size of saigon, it’s impossible to be caught up in a dull moment. there is something to do at any given point of the day with the city having attractions in abundance. that being said, you may have to be selective with what you visit, depending on your preferences and time scale. so here are some of my favourite spots and tourist attractions i feel are essential to check out when in the relentless saigon.

dầm Sen water park

war remnants museum

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cafe apartments

củ chi tunnels

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tân dịnh church

hachiko coffee (dog coffee shop)

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bùi viện (walking street)

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independence palace

final thoughts

to end the guide, here are some final thoughts. some ideas and philosophies i think are important to remember and be conscious of.

you cannot escape the inevitability of problems. moving and adapting your whole lifestyle is of course no exception. you will be faced with challenges. whether it be housing, jobs, transportation, climate, food culture, identification, general lifestyles, anything; it’s going to happen. for example, you may be faced with a complete culture shock if it’s your first time in asia. embrace these problems with welcoming arms and the downs will only open opportunities for your growth and appreciation later down the line. formulate this mantra as best as possible and you’ll be living life like a rainbow (with some storms in-between). trust me.

discovering the culture, grasping it and adapting are super important. something i didn’t pay much thought to at first. with everything to come, its very easy to overlook the foundations of moving to a country. you may assume it’s going to be an easy transition or forget that you’re actually moving into a very different way of life and push it to the back of you mind. you won’t give too much thought about it until it’s at your feet. whether it be eating street food, riding a motorbike, or even wandering through a sensory bashing market. there are points this journey can be very overwhelming. though the time will come where you are desensitised to the wild natures and ways of saigon living. smoking a joint riding through district 1 as you witness a family of 4 piled onto a motorbike with their puppy at the handlebars will become very normal. it’s a madness but a weird & wonderful madness that you become apart of and learn to love.

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thank you for all the challenges & good times ho chi minh. i will be back.

with love, elliott x